Chicago Tribune from Chicago, Illinois • Page 124

Food Guide Section 7 Chicago Tribune, Thursday, August 11, 1994 Kids 3 zyi fi Practical cook "WV Qua 1 By Peter Kump Special to the Tribune A bunch of blue crabs makes messy eating Tribune photo by Bill Hogan Evan Uhlmann, from left, Michael Stone, Karen Uhlmann and Gregory Uhlmann test lemon-lime soda from the cookbook, "Pretend Soup." the dog days of summer, when gatherings are more than likely to take place outdoors, there is no more perfect food to serve than blue crabs. A paper-covered picnic table, wooden mallets, cold beer and lots of napkins will result in a fun as well as delicious feast Add Continued From Page 1 review of "Pretend Soup" that he would enjoy making most of the recipes in the book, particularly the green spaghetti, French toast and oatmeal surprise. He did, however, express some concern that he might have to make the pizza exactly as the recipe states. "Would I have to use toppings they say? I don't like mushrooms." Barbara Stone asks her son Michaela confessed picky eater whether he'd enjoy eating fish if he got to cook it. "Noway." I' Incidentally, there was unanimity on who should clean up: "Let Mom do it." Cooking safely Katzen and Henderson offer the following safety tips for cooking with children: Never leave a child alone when cooking.

Everyone (adults included) should wash hands before starting. Keep a fire extinguisher in the kitchen and know how to use it. Discuss safety in simple, clear terms, especially when a task could be dangerous. Keep the handles of pots and pans toward the back of the work area and away from the edge. Putting things in or taking things out of the oven is for adults only.

About knives: The only knives a child should ever use are serrated dinner knives and strong plastic knives and only with close supervision. Put a piece of tape on the handle of the knife and make the rule: The hand stays on the tape. Leave blenders and food processors unplugged when not in use. The following recipes are adapted from the book; adult participation and supervision are required. Homemade lemon-lime soda pop Preparation time: 15 minutes Yield: 1 or 2 servings reduce the heat to a simmer and steam until the crabs turn red, no longer than 20 minutes.

5. Transfer to large platters or butcher paper and serve. Louisiana boiled crabs Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 35 minutes Yield: 6 to 8 servings Add corn on the cob and potatoes to the crab pot while cooking and serve with melted butter, lemon, tartar sauce and nutcrackers. 2 cups coarse (kosher) salt Juice of 5 lemons 3 tablespoons pepper sauce 1 teaspoon each: dried thyme, I celery seed Vi teaspoon each: ground black pepper', whole allspice teaspoon dry mustard 5 whole cloves 2 bay leaves 3 dozen live blue crabs 1. Fill a 12-quart non-reactive pot two-thirds full with water, about 8 quarts.

(If your pot is not large enough, cook the crabs in two batches and reduce the spice mixture by half.) Add salt, lemon juice and spices; heat to a boiL Cover, reduce heat slightly and cook 10 to 20 minutes. 2. Add the live crabs, return to a boil; cover and cook until nicely reddened, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the crabs and drain well Corn salsa Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 5 minutes Yield: About 2Y2 cups This is adapted from Mark Miller's "The Great Salsa Book." 4Vi cups water 1 ear com 1 teaspoon sugar cup cartola oil 1 poblano chill 4 ounces crab meat Vz red bell pepper, diced 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice 1 serrano chili, minced 1 teaspoon chopped fresh marjoram 1. Heat the water to a boil in a saucepan.

With a sharp knife, cut the corn kernels from the cob (you should have about cup). Add corn and sugar to the boiling water and blanch 1 minute. Drain and transfer the corn to a bowl. 2. Heat the canola oil in a skillet and when almost smoking, turn the whole poblano in the hot oil until blistering but not blackened.

Transfer poblano to a bowl cover with plastic wrap and let steam 10 minutes. Peel, seed and dice the poblano and transfer to the mixing bowl with the corn. Add the crab meat and remaining ingredients and thoroughly combine. 1994 by Peter Kump An adult will need to cut the lemons and limes. Other fruit juices, such as orange-pineapple, guava, grapefruit and pureed raspberries, can be substituted for the lemon and lime juice.

A little sugar can be added to taste, if desired. 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice cup plus 2 tablespoons apple juice concentrate, thawed 3 ice cubes 1 cup soda water 1. Combine everything in a glass and stir. 2. Add more ice, if desired, and drink with a straw or slurp with a spoon.

Hide and seek muffins Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 15 to 20 minutes Yield: 1 dozen For less mess, Katzen and Henderson suggest having the youngsters crack the eggs in the bottom of a large mixing bowl (rather than holding it over the edge of the bowl) and doing the measuring over another pan to catch spills. Muffin mix-lVi cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder teaspoon each: baking soda, salt cup sugar Batter and filling: cup (Vi stick) butter, melted 2 eggs 1 cup milk teaspoon vanilla 12 medium strawberries 2-3 tablespoons sugar for the strawberries 1. Preliminary: Grown-up assembles muffin mix in a medium bowl and melts butter. 2. Heat oven to 375 degrees.

Put 12 paper liners into muffin pan. 3. Break the eggs into a medium bowl. 4. Add the milk, vanilla and melted butter and whisk about 20 times.

5. Pour the milk mixture into the flour mixture. Mix with a spoon "until the flour is all gone" (incorporated). 6. Use a Vs-cup measure with a handle to fill the muffin papers not quite to the top.

7. Roll each strawberry in a little sugar, and put one in the center of each muffin, pushing it down with your finger. 8. Bake until a toothpick inserted all the way down comes out clean, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the pan to cool.

Cool at least 10 minutes on a wire rack before eating. (The strawberries can get hot.) Start a crab feast right by buying only lively crabs and cooking them the same day. under the mouth. To remove the top shell, press thumbs into the cut space and pry off the top shell exposing the gray gills and the digestive organs. Use a small knife scrap these away.

3. You may wish to eat the yellowish liver and fat under the shell. These are delicious. 4. Crack the crab in half and remove the inner shell on either side.

The meat in this section is the most flavorful. 5. Crack the legs and either use a toothpick to pull the meat out or suck the ends for a quick nibble. 6. Crack the claws and remove the meat The following recipes are old favorites.

Steamed blue crabs, preferred around Maryland, are seasoned with a less fiery mixture of spices than the Louisiana court bouillon for boiling the crabs. Maryland steamed crabs Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes Yield: 6 to 8 servings 1 cup coarse (kosher) salt 2 tablespoons cracked pepper 1 tablespoon each: celery salt, dry mustard 1 teaspoon each: ground red pepper, celery seeds, ground ginger, paprika 2 cups each: cider vinegar, water 3 dozen live blue crabs 1. Mix the salt and seasonings together in a bowl 2. Place a rack at least 2 inches off the bottom of a large, non-reactive pot Pour in the vinegar and water, which should stay below the level of the rack. 3.

Place about 6 crabs on the rack and sprinkle with 3 tablespoons of the seasoning; add another 6 crabs, sprinkle with another 2 to 3 tablespoons of seasonings and continue until all of the crabs and seasonings are in the pot. 4. Heat the liquid to a boil, cover, crusty bread, a cool, creamy coleslaw and an easy-to-eat dessert and you're set Though better known in Maryland or Louisiana, blue crabs (one of hundreds of crab varieties) are found all over the country, thanks to airlines and fresh seafood markets. Like most crustaceans, crabs turn a bright red when cooked, a marked change from their natural bluish-gray. And while crab meat is an American favorite, there is one catch: The meat is hard to get to.

(Hence the mallets!) If it's quick crab you're looking for, precooked lump crab and flaked crab should be available at most fish mongers, i Here are facts to keep in mind: Only buy blue crabs that are alive and quite lively. Cook the crabs the same day you buy them or at the latest the next day. If you are looking for flavorful crabs for soups and stews, choose female crabs. Females have the larger semi-circular "apron" on their undersides; the male apron is smaller and narrower. Allow at least six to eight crabs per person.

One pound of lump crab meat will serve four as a main course and eight as a first course. Be sure to sort through precooked lump crab meat to remove bits of shell and cartilage. To eat a cooked crab: 1. Twist off the legs and the two large claws. Set aside.

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