Chicago Tribune from Chicago, Illinois • 26

10- Section 1 A CHICAGO TRIBUNE, FRIDAY, JANUARY 13, 1971 Thirst Continues to Grow for Cold Duck i.Jr t' r- -CfeS BY RUTH ELLEN' CHURCH TOVT MAY HAVE been the biggest wine tasting ever given took place in Chicago before the holidays. It was a tasting of Italy's Asti spumante Gancia conducted in 120 wine shops. An estimated 60,000 samplers rolled on their tongues this famous sweet sparkling wine, made from muscat grapes. Something new was an added attraction: Gancia cold duck! For Americans not only like their sparkling wine to be sweet, they want it pink. Italy, as well as France, Germany and Canada, now is catering to the astonishing, ever growing thirst for pink bubbly wine.

Ask any casual acquaintance how he likes cold duck. Nine Let's Learn About Wines to know something about wines tells me that this wine is completely synthetic. Synthetic? Not possible! Lancer's is made from good Portuguese grapes and it is wine. Probably your friend meant to indicate that the wine is not naturally fermented in the bottle or bulk processed. It has instead been given a shot of carbon dioxide.

Lately this wine, which used to come in a ceramic jug and now appears in a jug-shaped bottle instead, has all but dropped its bubbles. It is being marketed now as simply rose wine. Portuguese rose wines are fresh, pretty and easy to like. Another popular one, the rival to Lancer's, is Mateus. Lagosta "the lobster wine" is a third.

"I'M ENCLOSING A COPY of the announcement of the wine appreciation course being offered again by the Napa Valley Wine Library Association. Since enrollment is limited and participants are accepted on a first come basis, I thought perhaps your readers would be interested again this year. I talked with several who last year took this course and found it greatly rewarding. It is a "non-profit, non-technical elementary course with no prerequisites other than a liking for wine and a desire to know it better," according to the announcement. Cost is $35 per person plus a $5 membership in the Napa Valley Wine Library Association for the calendar year.

A deposit of $15 reserves a place. Content of the course: Sensory evaluation of wines; field trips to see the grapes and learn something of viticulture; wine production and cellar practices, with field trip; wine and the consumer, including health aspects, with tastings; a lesson on champagne with field trip, a panel symposium, six tastings of Napa Valley wines with discussion and scorings. Lunches on Saturday and Sunday included in the fee. The 15-hour course will be taught on four separate weekends by a staff of Napa Valley winemakers and technicians. Dates are June 11-13; June 18-20; Sept.

10-12 and Sept. 17-19. Application should be made to James E. Beard, Wine Course Committee, P. O.

Box 16, St. Helena, Cal. 94574. Bake budgei tuna in a loaf with lemon slices. (TRIBUNE Staff Photo In Mary Meade Test Kitchen) $5 Favorite Tangy Tuna Bake TUNA-LEMON LOAF Eight servings! 3 thin lemon slices i cup nnciy-choped onion 2 tablespoons each: chopped pimento, minced parsley lablespoon lemon juice i Vi teaspoon pepper 2 cans 7 ounces each tuna, drained, flaked 1 can cream of celery soup, undiluted 1 cup fine cracker crumbs .3 eggs, separated Place lemon slices in bottom of a well-hnttprprf hv 4-innh out of 10 faces will light up with joy.

You can almost see those salivary glands at work! The 10th face is a frowning one. It belongs to a man who considers himself to be a wine connoisseur. He is outnumbered. The mad passion for cold duck effected an increase in production of California sparkling wines in the first 10 months of 1970 of nearly 63 per cent, as compared to 1969. It is quite possible that when the scores are in for the last two months of 1970, the figures will be even more wild.

Wh. 3 this will all end, who knows? We are being treated not only to cold duck, but "very cold duck," "extra cold duck," "strawberry duck," and horrors! something called "malt duck!" We await with some apprehension for the next duck to appear. Will it be from Mogen David, now owned by Coca-Cola? A cola duck? Cold duck originated in Michigan in 1963 but the big boom came along several years later. Some wineries didn't get on the money wagon until last year, among them big Almaden of California and little Wiederkehr of Arkansas. The bulk or Charmat process is used for most cold duck, but some of it is fermented in the bottle.

The Charmat process was developed in 1907 by Eugene Charmat, a Frenchman who died in 1970 at 94 years of age. Its advantages are in shortening time necessary for producing sparkling wines, and eliminating labor costs involved in bottle fermentation. Bulk process wines cost less than bottle-fermented sparkling wines, but are subject to the same excessive taxes. The label on your bottle tells you which you are getting, if the price does not. Two of the most prominent producers of loaf pan.

Mix tuna with remaining ingredients, except egg whites. Beat egg whites until stiff; fold into tuna mixture. Spoon gently into pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour. Sister Eleanor Blake Glendale Heights Send your favorite recipe to: Recipe Editor, Chicago Tribune.

It may bring you $5. Charmat processed sparkling wines are The Christian Brothers of California and Meier's Wine Cellars of Ohio. A few companies use both methods, Weibel and Cucamonga in the west, Renault in the east, as examples. "Cold duck is a winner. It's a fluke, but it's a winner.

Anyone thinking it's just the soda pop generation buying it had better have another think." So says Robert Lawrence Balzer, California restaurateur and wine authority, in his "Private Guide to Food and Wine." Mr. Balzer and a tasting panel of six went to the trouble of collecting two dozen cold ducks from California, Michigan, New York, France, Italy and Germany, and conducting a critical tasting. The Balzer comment on the Italian Gancia cold duck was "rich in taste, substantial body, beautiful color." Almaden's Le Domaine was "good show for cold duck, and obviously well priced." Paul Masson "very cold duck" was certainly one of the most well balanced of the lot, he said. Weibel's American crackling duck was deep colored, raspberry scented "sweet flavor from labrusca grapes. Well made but too sweet for me, but there are them that likes it." Highest rating went to a French cold duck available apparently only in California.

It was an A. de Luze and Fils bottle from Bordeaux. None of the ducks was accorded an A rating. Most rated tho the scores varied, and a $1.99 cold duck was ranked close to one selling for $5.29. Lejon's Waikiki duck and "Cold Turkey" from Paw Paw, received no rating at all.

Comment on the former: "From Waikiki what would you expect but Hawaiian punch? They should freeze it on a stick!" The Michigan product is a grape wine and cranberry juice cocktail. "MY WIFE AND I HAVE been drinking Lancer's rose wine for a long time with much enjoyment. Now a friend who seems Potatoes Take on Company Manners BY MORRISON WOOD San Francisco IT IS said that the most important single vegetable in the world is the potato. The world crop reaches 560 billion pounds a year, with Russia the largest single producer, with an annual crop of 200 billion pounds. However, much of Russia's crop is JOHN Mt MICK, inc.

ItM consumed in liquid form-vodka! Altho today the potato is a commonplace article of food, readily available, the lack of it once caused overwhelming disaster. In 1847-48 when a blight hit the potato crop in Ireland, the people had become so dependent on this article of food that an appalling famine occurred. Thousands died of hunger, and a million and a half Irish people emigrated to America. Since much of the minerals and other nutritive worth of the potato is just beneath the skin, potatoes should be cooked in their jackets whenever possible. New potatoes need only washing and scrubbing.

If potatoes are boiled, cover them with rapidly boiling water and cook for about 30 minutes, or until tender. Or bake them at 425 degrees 40 to 60 minutes. If you like the skin soft, rub them with a little bacon fat before baking. Prick the potatoes with a fork in several places after they are HIE OWQOVi 11 (PI iyJliJ pg Heavy Duty Determents with over 34 phosphate Cold Power Ajax Gain Breeze Dreft Fab Bold Punch Bonus Cheer Drive Title VOl IF 13 IF If it is, it shouldn't be your detergent. Because the phosphates it contains promote algae pollution killing fish, causing water to stagnate, turning lakes into swamps.

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half cooked. This allows the steam to escape, and makes a fluffier potato. Delmonico's was the finest and most fashionable restaurant in New York in the gay '90s and into the 20th century. Many of the great dishes that originated there are still in existence. One of their outstanding potato dishes was Delmonico Potatoes.

To make this savory dish boil 5 medium large potatoes; cool and dice into J-inch cubes. Melt cup butter; blend in cup flour. Slowly add 2 cups milk and 1 bouillon cube. Cook, stirring constantly, until creamy and thickened. Mix 1 cup grated Switzerland cheese into the diced potatoes, together with 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh or frozen chives.

Fold in cream sauce and Vt teaspoon salt. Place mixture in a well buttered 11 by 7 by 1-inch baking dish. Top with about cup buttered bread crumbs. Bake at 400 degrees about 30 minutes, or until top is well browned. Serve from the dish.

Eight servings. If you're having a dinner party for 12 to 15, serve Prestige Potatoes with tho entree. Cook 5 pounds un-pared medium potatoes and 2 cups sliced celery in boiling salted water until potatoes are done. Drain, reserving cup cooking water. Melt 6 tablespoons butter; stir in 6 tablespoons flour.

Gradually add 2 cups milk, reserved cooking water, 1 package 23i ounces onion soup mix and cup dry sherry. Cook, stirring constantly, until thickened. Remove from heat; stir in 1 cup sour cream and 2 teaspoons each salt and bitters. Peel and slice potatoes; put layer of potatoes and celery into a 3-qunrt casserole. Top with some of the sauce.

Continue layering, ending with the sauce. Mix 1 cup seasoned croutons with cup moiled butter and sprinkle around the sides on top of the casserole. Bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes, or until hot. Twelve to 15 servings. tometer, in the hardest water.

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