Chicago Tribune from Chicago, Illinois • Page 146

Food Guide Restaurants Tanikaze accents good food Chicago Tribune, Thursday, November 7, 1974 Section 6 Tanikaze Steak House. New, Safe. Non-Toxic MIL IPDDMSE Tlr TVvCtf-R IB'- By Kay Loring JAPANESE STEAK houses are beginning to be old hat in We have well-established and good ones, but they're no ionger novel. So the opening of a new one, the Tanikaze at 63J0 N. Lincoln Av.

just south of Devon, didn't seem particularly noteworthy when we first heard of it. Not until we dined the other evening on some of its exceptionally good food. Far and away our best dinner of the week. The Tanikaze minimizes one of the things I've disliked most about the Japanese steak houses the family style of sitting next to strangers it vour pauy numbers leas than eight lo ten. That can be fun on occasion; a decided bore if you'd looked forward to a private conversation or if you must wait on whims of those strangers to be served.

The Tanikaze is equipped with the familiar ered tables for eight to ten guests, where high hatted chefs provide much of the evening's art and fun in their showmanship preparation of steaks, seafood, chicken, and vegetables. CONTRARY TO procedures followed when such steak houses were introduced in Chicago a few years ago, the Tanikaze host makes an obvious attempt to give twosomes and other small parties their privacy by seating them at an unoccupied table if one is available if not, by seating them apart, if at all possible, at a partially occupied table. Nor is preparation of their order dependent on that of others at the same table. Like at least two other of our Japanese steak houses in Chicago, the Tanikaze is Tokyo based. Most of the staff comes from there, including Akira Ishikawa, the owner-manager.

He was with Beni-hana a few years before opening his own restaurant six weeks ago. He also has a restaurant in Tokyo. His chefs are trained in the "Misono" art of grill cookery. In Japan this is called teppanyaki or hi-bachi cooking, altho the charcoal of the hibachi has given way to fast cooking gas. The Japanese are likely to tell" you that such restaurants in Tokyo are more American than Japanese like Chicago, Tokyo is filled with a maze of restaurants of all nationalities.

The Tanikaze meaning "valley of the wind" is a big, dimly-lighted, high-ceil-inged place, its obviously original western interior given an Oriental facade with artifacts and engaging personnel. Waitresses in blue figured kimonas with red obi and red aprons, are tiny and quick and delightful. They seem to care. The ebullient chefs appear alternately in red and blue hats and Oriental jackets. The menu is very 'simple, presented on a small cutting board, with its moderately expensive dinner listing on one side, the rather expensive-for-the-area drinks on the other.

DINNERS ALL are table d'hote, so there's no worry about hidden extras that have become all too prevalent in these inflated times. Price of the cntr.ee includes a delicious hot broth called "Jap- -anese onion soup" in which slices of fresh mushroom and green onion and somewhat less tasty trench fried onions are swimming. A crisp green salad. Steamed rice. Hot tea.

Freshly grilled zucchini, onions, mushrooms, and bean sprouts. Two sauces: mustard and ginger for dipping. With all except the lobster dishes, appetizer of tender and moist hibachi shrimp. Ice cream or sherbet for dessert. Dinners are from $6.25 for chicken to $10.25 for lobster tail and $12.50 for steak and lobster.

In between are three cuts of steak and we tried two of them, a splendid filet mignon $8.75 and what is called the "kamikaze" $7.75 which turned out to be a moderately thin cut of sirloin. Both were luscious and tender. With their identical seasonings and grilling, -they actually tasted much alike. nv aw tm Pvnirnr' "KIaimL. in I OTA ir noon until 5 p.

at $7.75 for adults; $4 for children under 10. Congratulations to the Kona Kai, the Marriott's Polynesian restaurant which recently celebrated its first, anniversary. And to the Junk, a unique Chinese restaurant at 2143. S. Archer on its second anniversary.

There will be entertaining and dancing at the Junk's Christmas party on Friday, Dec. 20. Christmastime marks the eighth anniversary of Chiam Restaurant in its present building in Chinatown, 2323 S. Wentworth and the 25th year of the restaurant's founding. It continues under management of one of its two founders, Yate Wong.

John Bakos is celebrating his eighth anniversary as owner of Uncle Andy's Cow Palace in Palatine this week. 8 mm (Q)FF TO THE DEALER: WE WILL PAY YOU 20c PLUS3c HANDLING CHARGE FOR EACH OF THESE IB COUPONS REDEEMED IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE TERMS OF THIS OFFER. TO OBTAIN PAYMENT. SEND TO ALLIED AUFRITAM iwr: Pfl RT1V 1 1 fi rnTfiM miS. n.

I TO THE DEALER: WE WILL PAY YOU 20c PLUS3c HANDLING CHARGE FOR EACH OF THESE I COUPONS REDEEMED IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE TERMS OF THIS OFFER. TO OBTAIN PAYMENT, SEND TO ALLIED AMERICAN. P.O. BOX 1142 CLINTON, IOWA 527W The versatile cleaner that is gentle to your hands You control its action for the toughest or mildest cleaning job. REMOVES BURN SPOTS FROM: ovens barbecue grills copper bottom pans electric ranges gas ranges pyrex baking dishes rottsseries porcelain enamelware aluminum ware.

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We washed our steak. down with warmed sake, the Japanese rice wine which, according to Japanese protocol, you never pour, for yourself another person fills your empty cup and in turn, fill his. And please, don't let the empty cup just sit there while it's being-, filled it should be held up for the pourer. HOURS: 11:30 a. m.

to 2 p. m. Monday thru Friday; 5 to 11 p. m. every day; to midnight Friday and Saturday.

Arundownof Japanese steak houses in Chicago includes Ron of Japan, 230 E. Ontario the Benihana, 166 E. Hana East, 210 E. Ohio St. Among the best of our Japanese restaurants which have teppanyaki tables as well as other types of Japanese foods are the Ichiban, both at 1660 N.

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