Chicago Tribune from Chicago, Illinois • 57

(ThicaO (Tribune Friday, February 11, 1983 Section 3 Weekend's best SOUL: Little Stevie and the Disciples of Soul, Sunday at Park West. COMEDY: The brilliant comedy duo the Fine Line, Friday and Saturday at Ben's Theajer Cafe. Larry Kart's review on page 5. t4 fey J. W.

ART: "Paper and Light," examples of the art of the calotype, all weekend at the Art Institute. 1 DANCE: The American Ballet Theater, Friday and Saturday at the Auditorium Theatre. For details, see the Weekend Guide, page 10. Candy shops For Valentine's, chocolates made by loving hands By Christine Walsh Angelos 71 1 1 I i VALENTINE'S Day candy is dandy, but hand-dipped candy is dandier. The chocolates are made one at a time accord The Mt.

Comiskey Park Memorial to the mayors that Bridgeport made: Kelly, Kennelly, Bilandic and Daley. A pair of monumental Chicago neighborhoods By Ron Grossman HE WINDOWS OF THE Bob Tail Inn frame a scene that could serve as a birthday card for Chicago's sesquicentennial. From the bar you behind Comiskey Park, just as they have ever since the game was transplanted here from Naples and Calabria almost a century ago. Ride down streets like Lituanica and Emerald, Lyman and Lowe, and you won't see a single set of golden arches or any other of the fast-food franchises that everywhere else are homogenizing American life. Instead, the whole area still is dotted with corner taverns whose distinctive names testify to the individuality of their clientele.

Here you will find places with names such as Croatian Spring and Joan of Archer. AND NEIGHBORING Canaryville has a commitment to parochialism even Bridgeporters speak of with awe. Bob McNamara, who runs a Canaryville bar called the Red Bird Flap Inn, says of the locals: "First come the other 50 states," they say, shaking their heads. "Then there's Canaryville." For their part the people of Canaryville make it absolutely clear to a passing stranger that their little comer of the world is not to be confused with their better-known neighbor to the north. "We're a suburb of Bridgeport!" they say with a pixielike glee that traces to their ancestral homeland.

But what a suburb! In his "Daley of Chicago," Bill Gleason observed that "it is as though the zoning ordinances for the community had been drawn by a panel of madmen." Factories, warehouses, scrap yards and garages compete with residences for every bit of usable space. Yet despite its no-nonsense, quintessential urban appearanceor maybe Just precisely because of it Canary- Continued on following page sprawling Union Stock Yards, which opened on Bridgeport's southern boundaries in 1865. Over the years, Germans, Poles, Lithuanians, Croatians, Italians and Mexicans came. Dotting the neighborhood are their churches, whose steeples dominate its skyline. Yet in a real sense the overriding credo of Bridgeport is politics.

Michigan Avenue may have its Water Tower, Hyde Park its university. But for two decades Bridge-. porters could take pride that one of their own neighbors was known around the world as "the Mayor." IN FACT, the era of Bridgeport's dominance long antedated the coming of Richard J. Daley, as for almost 'half a century, between 1933 and 1979, City Hall was occupied by an unbroken string of its native sons. Right now it must be the exceptional house that doesn't display a statue of the Virgin in one window, a poster for Richard II in another.

Indeed, watching the first mayoralty debate at Schal-ler's Original Pump, kitty-corner from 11th Ward headquarters, I got the feeling that people here don't just think their man the most qualified. Rather, looking up at the TV screen, they seemed almost puzzled to see two other candidates flanking their own. To their minds it must appear as some flaw in our democratic system that outsiders even are allowed to challenge a good Bridgeport boy. After all, would anyone presume to campaign against the Madonna for her office? Maybe because theirs is Chicago's first neighborhood, Bridgeporters wage an undeclared war against the passage of time. EACH SUMMER EVENING the old men of the community still play bocce under the street lights look out at the last few frame homes and small factories of Bridgeport's northernmost point.

Then comes the Chicago River, and beyond, the skyscrapers of the Bridgeport and Cariaryville, its neighbor to the South, are among the city's oldest neighborhoods, and they remain remarkably unchanged today, a testament to the tenacity of a way of life. The Bob Tail is one of the last of a vanishing breed of taverns that once not only drew their customers a stein of beer but also fed and housed them. A signboard still advertises "Sleeping Rooms." In recent years the proprietors have limited their rentals to the neighborhood's older bachelors, but if you could get them to relax that rule for a night, you'd have the honor of sleeping not more than a few hundred yards from where Chicago's first European visitor, Ft. Pierre Marquette, holed up through the winter of 1674-75. Failing that, try some smoked butt and cabbage or another of the plate lunch specials, and you'll have Chicago history right under your feet.

ABOUT THE TIME of Chicago's founding, Charles Lee began to plow the prairie just about where the Bob Tail stands, and within a few decades Lee's farm was bordered by a huge tent city housing thousands of Irishmen imported to dig a canal linking Chicago with the Mississippi River. In turn, the canal attracted industries to the neighborhood and thus more immigrants. So also did the ing to secret recipes, and they invariably have a thicker chocolate coating than the machinemade kind. The Chicago area is blessed with more than a score of shops that hand-dip chocolates, and for most candymakers, it's a labor of love. "It's something I'm doing to make people happy.

It's a happy business," said Eva Myers of Cora Lee Candies in Glenview. Many of the recipes have been passed down by family members who started the business years ago. "I would not sell my formulas for a quarter of a million dollars," vowed Elton Mellum, owner of Mellum's Confectionery in Woodstock and McHenry. HERE IS A round-up of stores that offer Chocolates hand-dipped on the premises. In most cases the confections inside the chocolate, such as caramel or creams, are made in the shops, too.

-Chocolate generally is purchased in bulk and melted on site, then dished to a marble counter so the dippers can swirl it to the proper consistency. Exceptions to regular business hours are noted, along with the selections available. Prices for the" hand-dipped chocolates range from $4.50 to $16. a. -pound.

Anderson's Candy Shop, 10301 Main Richmond; 815-678-4030. Closed Monday. English toffee, caramels, creams, bars, fruits, nuts and chocolatecaramelpecan with a divinity center. Cora Lee Candles, 995 Waukegan Glenview; 724-2764. Closed Sunday.

Truffles, English toffee, meltaways, caramels, bark, creams, fruit, nuts, plus whimsical molded chocolate creations. Cunis Candles, 1030 E. 162d South Holland; 596-2440. Closed Sunday. Caramel pecans, cherry cordials, mint meltaways, creams, caramels, nuts.

Cupid Candles, 7637 S. Western 925-8191. Also stores at 3143 W. 63d Evergreen Park, Oak Lawn and Hickory Hills. Western Avenue store closed Sunday.

Creams, hard centers, fruits, meltaways, French mint, chocolatecaramelpecan "Turks," plus old-fashioned candles. Dove Candles and Ice Cream, 6000 S. Pulaski 582-3119. Oak Lawn store at 5172 W. 95th St.

Open until 10:45 p.m. seven days a week. Creams, caramels, nougats, English toffee, fudge balls and nut clusters. Gayety Candy 9207 S. Commercial 933-9867.

Open until 9 p.m. seven days a week. Creams, nougats, fruit, toffee, chocolatecaramelpecan "Muddles," honey and molasses nougats, mint and rum meltaways. Ideal Candy Shop, 3311 N. Clark 327-2880.

Closed Monday and Tuesday. Bittersweet and milk chocolate creams, nut clusters, fudge, caramels and chocolatenutcarame) lottos Keeler-s Candy Shop, 154 N. York Elmhurst; 834-2042. Creams, caramels, fruit, nuts, mint meltaways and almond butter toffee. se tor's Candles, 15 W.

St. Charles Lombard; 627-1531. (Not connected with the Elmhurst store.) Closed Sunday In winter. Creams, caramels, nougats, coconut clusters, nuts, I fruits, mint meltaways and caramelpecanchocolate "Elves." Land O' Sweet Candle, 4347 W. Fullerton 252-4310.

Creams, caramels, coconut clusters, nuts and fudge balls. Long Grove Confectionery 220 Coffin Long Grove; 634-0925. Also stores at the Drake Hotel, Plaza del Lago and Carillon Square In Glenview. Creams, caramel-chocolatenut "Myrtle," fruits Including whole strawberries, nuts, cream Hquor centers, glace fruits, molded Kerns, plus chocolate "pizza." Margie's Candle. 1960 N.

Western 384-1035. Open until midnight seven days a week. Creams, caramels, nougats, pecanmarshrnallowchocolate "Heavenly Hash," plus cherry cordials with stems. Marshall Field It 111 N. State 781-4656.

And at suburban stores. Soft centers, fruit and nut clusters In milk or dark chocolate, English toffee, cherries, pineapple and pudding, peanut butler cupe and Frango mints. Martha's Candy Shop, 3257 N. Broadway; 248-0733. Creams, fruits, nut clusters are hand-dipped upon occasion.

Mellum's Woodstock Confectionery, 126 N. Benton Woodstock; 815-338-7666. Closed Sunday. McHenry store, 1315 Riverside Dr. Cream centers; clusters; meltaways; fruits, Including whole strawberries; rum fudge beds; and chocolate'pecarVcaramel "Wurtle." Mortise Chocolate Shop, 1775 N.

Rand Palatine; 395-3454. Cream centers with Hght or dark chocolate, nut clusters, raisins, coconut, French cream, sold chocolate molds and choootatenuVcaramel "Puppets." The Ranch Sweet Shop, Wis. Hwy. 83, one-hall mil south of Wis. Hwy.

50, Salem. 414-843-2351. Creams, nut dusters, coconut, raisins, fruits, soSd chocolate pieces, cinnamon sticks and a carameVpecanchocotato confection. Ting A Ling Chocoieto Shop, 42 W. DMston 751-0825.

Open 11 a.m. to mtdntght. Closed Sunday. Creams; fruits, Including orange peels; nut clusters; and Continued on page 4 Dining Ringing in the Year of the Boar with a Chinese feast By Paul A. Camp Food editor RE YOU DOING ANYTHING special for Chinese New Year this year?" the caller quired.

"Don't know yet," said the Oriental A' man who answered the telephone at the Hunan Garden Year's celebration often lasted a full month, with many banquets and parties. Fireworks were ever present, as were gambling games. Nowadays in China the festivities officially are limited to three days. Nevertheless, the New Year remains China's most important holiday and food continues to play a major role, symbolizing the wishes for good luck, health and prosperity in the New Year. "THE CHINESE New Year Is sort of comparable to Christmas here," says Phil Shen, owner of the Abacus on North Clark Street.

"It's a time when families get -together. The elders give red envelopes to youngsters that contain coins called lucky money. Marrieds also do this for singles, and other gifts are given. If someone visits you, you have to repay their visit. "So it's a very social, happy time.

Pork dishes are traditional, as well as noodle cake. At every home food is available throughout the day." Traditional Chinese New Year dishes are relatively simple, prepared ahead of time so that hosts have more time to spend with their families and guests. However, several of Chicago's Chinese restaurants are offering sumptuous feasts to help ring In the Year of the Boar. HERE ARE SOME of the more Interesting Chinese Continued on following page in Decrbrook Mall. "Do you know when you'll decide?" the caller asked.

"Maybe next week," the man replied. "But Chinese New Year next week," the caller pointed out. "Yes, call back then, thank said the man, who seemed pleased that the matter was now resolved. Inscrutable, the Chinese. For them, the New Year Is the time to resolve all matters, pay all debts and settle all disputes.

However, the Chinese have developed procrastination into such a fine art that It is said many a man will go Into hiding until New Year's Day simply to avoid making amends one second before the final Even when it comes to planning their New Year's celebrations, some local restaurateurs wait until the very last minute. Luckily not all of them do. THE CHINESE calendar Is baaed en 12 lunar cycles, and lasts about 354 days. So the New Year begins on a different dale every year, the day of the first full moon between Jan. 20 and Feb.

20. One of 12 different zodiacal animal signs represents each year. The Year 6f the Boar 4681 begins Sunday and will be ushered into the Chicago area with firecrackers, special banquets at several restaurants and traditional lion dances (one begins at 11 a.m. Sunday at 1000 W. Argyle St.

in "new" Chinatown and another at 1 rm. at Cermak Road and Wentworth Avenue in old Chinatown). Before the Communists won control of China, the New .1 VV YOU SEE MY SWEET Smllo IT LL PROBABLY BE A BOX OF CANW SHAFEP LIKE A PIG BABBOO" STANDING THERE? H'S HANGING AROUND THE CANPY STORE TRYING TO PECIDE WHAT TO 6ET ME FOR Coming Saturday Richard Christiansen talks to Danilo Radojevic, a rising star with the American Ballet Theater, and Lynn Van Matre reviews heavy rockers Missing Persons at Park West. VALENTINE'S A OR YS1W A BI6 THE CUTE5T I ZERO THING? (I Bureaucratic Copout No. 1: "You should have seen it when got ill" CMcM.