Chicago Tribune from Chicago, Illinois • 354

Travl 13 Section 12 Chicago Tribune, Sunday. December 4, 1938 Tunisia abounds with superb beaches and a rich historical heritage Tho Artful Traveler World Travel Watch is a monthly update of advisories and warnings, designed to provide the information necessary to make informed judgments about travel throughout the world. By Larry Habegger and James O'Reilly I unisia, the smallest of North Africa's Maghreb states, lies between Algeria and Libya, only 90 miles from Sicily. Its coastline on the Mediterranean Sea is a virtually continuous stretch of superb beaches, its northern region is a fertile and well-watered area conducive to agriculture, and the southern third drops off gradually into the Sahara. Tunisia has a rich cultural heritage evident in historical sites scattered across the country.

The most famous of these is Carthage, the Phoenician capital that was sacked and plowed into the soil by the conquering Romans, located near the capital of Tunis. Other empires have come and gone and left their marks on the country and people, including the Byzantines, Arabs, Ottoman Turks and the French. Tunisia's beaches are its principal tourist attraction, drawing thousands of European tourists each year. The North African climate offers year-round sunshine, although the interior is cool in the winter and snow is common in the highlands. Spring is the best time to be here; summers are hot Tunisia is one of the most stable and moderate Arab countries, and as such offers relatively safe, hassle-free travel.

Customs agents rarely require travelers to open their bags, and the crime rate is low, but travelers should use common sense in urban areas. though French is widely used and English and Italian are not uncommon. World updates Afghanistan; The historic Khyber Pass into Pakistan, through which countless armies have passed, including Alexander the Great's on his invasion of India, will likely reopen by February, when the Soviet withdrawal is scheduled to be completed. Guatemala: Travel to the major tourist areas is normal from a security standpoint, although road travel between cities at night is not recommended. Guerrilla activity still occurs in the western part of the country, especially along the Mexican border and in the northern portions of EI Quiche and Huehuetenango departments.

Avoid off-road travel in the highlands, and when going to Lake Atitlan, use the Los Encuen-tros-Solola turnofT from the Pan American Highway and avoid the southern side of the lake. Street crime is high in the cities, especially in crowded markets. Use common sense precautions. Haiti: Because of uncertain political conditions, avoid nonessential travel here. Register with the American Embassy (telephone 2-1770) in Port-au-Prince on arrival.

Holland: Amsterdam's legendary tolerance of "soft" drugs has gradually eroded, and the city is now less a countercultural haven than it was in the 1970s. Reduced welfare payments and a tight job market have motivated many to move away from drug use, and the trend is toward more traditional lifestyles. Street crime is still high. Japan: Beginning Dec. IS, Americans who possess transit or round trip tickets will be able to visit Japan for up to 90 days without a visa.

The reciprocal arrangement is designed to facilitate the flow of travelers between the two countries and enough during the day, give bad service or fail to show up for a booking. Twelve demerits in a year means expulsion from the agency. USSR: A lost or expired visa must be reported to the Soviet sponsoring agency immediately so a replacement can be issued in time for departure. Anycne having problems leaving the country should contact the American Embassy in Moscow (252-2451) or the American Consulate in Leningrad (274-8235). Organized tours are often strenuous for elderly or frail people, and medical care does not meet Western standards.

In addition, major unexpected bills can come up from altered travel arrangements, including plane fares and hotel accommodations. Consider buying insurance to cover these contingencies. In tourist has been known to absolve itself of all responsibility for sick travelers and abandon them to fend for themselves during and after their illness. U.S. Customs: The importation of plants or animal hides and trophies is closely regulated in the U.S.

To learn what can and cannot be imported, contact the federal government before you go. For plants, contact the Permit Unit, USDA, APHIS, PPQ, 6505 Bclcrest Hyatts-ville, Md. 20782; 301-436-8645. For hides or game animal trophies, contact ImportExport and Emergency Planning Staff, USDA, APHIS, VS, 6506 Bel-crcst Road, Hyattsville, Md. 20782; 301-436-8695.

For a summary of global travel conditions, contact World Travel Watch, 10 Napier Lane, San Francisco, Calif. 94133. Because conditions can change overnight, always make your own inquiries before you visit troubled areas. In the United States, contact your local U.S. Passport Agency office, abroad, check in with the nearest American embassy.

to relieve consular officials of a burden of paperwork. Mexico: The Yucatan Peninsula resorts of Cancun, Cozumel and Isla Mujeres are almost fully recovered from the destruction wrought by Hurricane Gilbert Services are expected to be back to normal by mid-December. Club Med Cancun plans to reopen Dec. 17. Nicaragua: Travelers should arrive by air at Sandino International Airport in Managua.

Overland travel remains hazardous in many areas of the country because occasional fighting still occurs despite the cease-fire between Sandanista and Contra forces. Land travel outside the major cities is also dangerous because of the presence of unexplodcd land mines. Avoid border areas and don't travel at night The only open border crossing with Honduras is at El Espino on the Pan American Highway. Travelers are urged not to try to enter Nicaragua by crossing the Gulf of Fonseca by ferry from El Salvador. Petty theft has increased, especially on Managua's crowded buses.

North Korea: The United States recently announced it is easing restrictions on travel to and trade with North Korea. The policy change will make it possible for certain groups of Americans to visit the country, will allow the export of humanitarian goods to North Korea and will permit American officials to meet North Korean officials in neutral settings. There is no change, however, in the lack of consular protection and services for American citizens. The U.S. government does not provide them, and no third party looks out for the interests of American travelers there.

Singapore: The city's largest taxi network is taking part in a self-improvement campaign, penalizing drivers who spread "malicious rumors," don't drive long smaller towns with larger cities. Large taxis licensed to carry five passengers offer a faster, more comfortable alternative to buses, and ply the same routes. Djerba Island off the southern coast was a recreation center during Roman times and today is a prime tourist destination. Apart from its palm-lined beaches, it is a handicraft center which offers especially good weavings. The oasis town of Gabes (Qabis) is a good place to explore life on the fringes of Die desert.

Nearby are the cave dwellings of Matmata, an underground town carved out of rock that is invisible from ground level. Arrangements can be made to spend the night in one of these dwellings through the Marhala Touring Club. The Berber village of Douz lies midway between Gabes and Tawzar and stages a lively camel festival in late January. The old walled city of Al Qayrawan and its colorful souk offer glimpses of Tunisian life as it has been for centuries. The souk is one of the best in the country and the Grand Mosque here is an important Islamic center.

Adequate medical care is available in Tunis and other major cities. Tapwater is drinkable for the most part, but in certain seasons the water in Tunis is not potable and in the desert regions it's somewhat salty. Better to be safe and drink bottled water. Arabic is the national language, al The country's road and rail networks are excellent, with buses linking many of the OTITIO ran ss Ar from Y1U me On! IM1 1 mi V. Your better half cruises 1 6- ft SB ft rr )) yf ji 4 for half price on the Cruise the CostaRiviera SSCoStaRtVterCUAndyOU and the second person bothflyfree.

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